Bodega de la Ardosa

In the Malasaña neighborhood, there's a bodega with its original doors and panels painted red and period glasswork still in place, almost untouched since Rafael Fernández Bagena brought wine from his own vineyards in Consuegra and opened his first bodega here in 1892. More than a century later, the place has survived the Movida madrileña, several generations, and mass tourism without moving an inch. Three meters wide, a bar running the full length of the back wall, and half a dozen high tables. One detail worth mentioning: to reach the bathroom, you have to duck under the bar.

One thing you shouldn't skip ordering is the tortilla pincho, juicy, set at just the right point, never raw and remarkably moist. It pairs well with the ham croquettes and the grilled artichokes, when in season. To drink, vermouth on tap or one of their draft beers. You eat standing up, close to the bar, in an atmosphere that suits it. For newcomers, it's one of those experiences you live through and never forget.